Encore Presentations
New Jersey Life Magazine
Review by Pat Tanner
October 2008
Three Stars
Jonas Gold made his mark in the kitchens of several New Jersey restaurants, including the Harvest Moon Inn in Ringoes and the Fox and Hound Tavern in Lebanon. But with the opening last year of this, his very own restaurant in his hometown, his culinary talents have really blossomed.
His skills are evident not only on his modern multicultural menu, which he describes as “traditional with a twist,&dsquo; but in the care and attention he has lavished on every aspect of his operation, not least in transforming a space that had been an ice cream parlor into a serene, surprisingly airy restaurant that is spare without being Spartan and stylish without being self–conscious.
Daily specials are printed (thank you!), and the staff adds just enough supplemental information to facilitate an informed choice. Patrons who bring wine to this 55-seat BYO encounter superior wineglasses and a staff that knows how to handle each bottle. The chef tweaks his offerings weekly, adjusting not only for the seasons but also in a sincere quest to perfect each component. Exceptional coffee is served.
Gold’s quest for culinary perfection sometimes results in memorable dishes. A salad of udon noodles, of all things, caused one well–versed foodie companion to exclaim, “This is better than any I’ve had at any Japanese restaurant.” Gold’s kurobuta pork shank, prepared osso–buco style, is paired with a well–executed risotto featuring asparagus and bacon, resulting in a dish that any Italian chef would envy. A fresh–tasting lemon tart – Gold also makes desserts himself – is exceptionally light and creamy.
Not every item warrants such accolades. That tart stood heads and shoulders above a raspberry cheesecake. Bland chicken with penne seems like a throwaway. Gold has a predilection for adding sweet notes to savory dishes – which works in a starter of ravioli filled with shredded short ribs in carrot purée but not in a side of macaroni and cheese.
One could complain that there are few innovations or groundbreaking dishes on the menu. Still, the stalwart seared yellowfin tuna entree with wasabi is flawless and beautifully magnified by aromatic jasmine rice flecked with vegetable confetti. Like all else here, it comes in a generous portion, beautifully presented. The grilled salmon was an exemplary specimen, but on our visit it was accompanied by greasy, flavorless fried green tomatoes.
The chef walked through the dining room several times during our meal, checking in with staff mostly. Such attentiveness manifested itself even when I called to make the reservation. Gold himself answered the phone during off hours, eventually informing me that the only table open would have to be vacated by a certain time. To his credit, he tried to dissuade me from taking it on the chance that we might feel rushed. I persevered, and although we came within a few minutes of abusing our allotted time, staff members never gave any indication that they wanted us to scram. A class act, from start to finish.
Read More Reviews about 55 Main
Review #1
Review #2
Review #3
Review #4
Review #5
|
